Beziers or Bust x 2

(Mike again and Serena will do the pics) - We left you last time in Avignon relaxing and basking in the glory of a great week! But all great teams need to adapt and pivot.  And adapt we did.

Adaptation 1 - Cody Breakaway

It happened - Cody graduated from his cycle touring apprenticeship! This manifested in the form of Cody deciding to push on and see what he could achieve solo.  For us this led to a very tough morning where we had to get our own breakfast - after 10 days of the best croissants and chausson-au-pommes delivered every morning by Cody, Serena and I struggled for about an hour looking for one that looked as good  - eventually we found one that fell way short!

Saying goodbye to our wonderful team meat, Cody.  Mike giving last minute tips as I had a few tears (and took a few pics), then hugs all round and off he went - if you love them, set them free!

Adaptation 2 - Tyre Wars!

So, while Cody was burning rubber on the route towards the coast, we took an extra rest day, and sorted out a few things - like a new rear tyre for me (it felt like a big step forward at the time)!  

The next day we headed off again, for a short run (40k) to Tarascon.  We'd been there years back, and it was magical. Along the way I got to test out my new tyre, and things didn't go well. I got my fist puncture about 10k down the road, and used my last tube (I'd sent a couple with Cody and knew I could easily replace them - which of course I didn't - even though I was at a bike shop to get my tyre!!). Running with no spare tubes is stressful, especially when another puncture appears 10k further down the road. So, now 8k from the next bike shop (Intersport), I used the tried and true method of putting tape on tube and pumping it up and riding till I had to stop, and rinse and repeat. (Somehow I get the feeling this was a bigger deal to me than it will seem to all you faithful readers - but I'm the one at the keyboard!).  So, long story short I made it to Intersport,  realised it was the tyre itself that was causing the punctures, found they didn't have a decent tyre, used my spare tyre and a new tube to get me to a great bike shop in town, where I got a great new tyre fitted by the owner (3 changes in one day is my limit), and my rear brake pads replaced ... phew!!

Now perfect again we headed into Tarascon, to a really cute little Auberge and a room with another courtyard. Tarascon castle was still magical but the place has lost some of its cuteness.

Ready to head off ourselves - without our wonderful Cody - but we stayed strong and moved ahead in glorious weather and the promise of the Mediterranean

Glorious cycling - olive trees everywhere, sandy paths (though we learnt very quickly they meant lots of DUST, DUST THAT GOES EVERYWHERE!)

WOOHOO!  The bike shop that saved us.  

The fabulous castle in Tarascon that we'd visited around 25 years ago.  Crazy to be back.

Our cute little auburge terrace in Tarascon.

Adaptation 3 - Off the Via Rhona to Nimes

The next day we were ready to push on towards the coast when we had a call from our nephew adventurer saying he was cooked (220k in 2 days will do that to you!), so we hatched a plan to rendezvous in Nimes for lunch. Serena and I headed cross country (off the set bike paths) to Nimes where we found Cody basking in the glory of an adventure well lived, and full of tales of magical places like the Mediterranean, Montpellier and Beziers. So we decided to all stay in Nimes for a night and continue our tales of adventure. We booked a room with 3 beds, only to be taken in as the true heroes we felt, and be upgraded to a 2 bedroom suite!  We thought this was awesome, so awesome that one night turned into 3 before Cody had to go back to the land of OZ. Serena and I sneaked an extra 4th night, before our magical time in Nimes was over.

The band is back together!  We were so happy to see Cody again and meet him at a great burger spot for lunch in Nimes. He'd trained it from Beziers, and we'd re-routed to explore Nîmes with him.  YAY!!

Nimes is an incredible place to visit - it blew me away.  Big Roman ruins everywhere.  The Amphitheatre was AMAZING.

And the Roman temple ENORMOUS.

And this tower was scary as shit to climb up - the steep spiral staircase had me FREAKING OUT.  It was built to demonstrate Rome's greatness, but crikey all it did was unite me with a deep fear of plunging to my death.

But it was a great view once I made it to the top.

Now this was magical - when we arrived at our hotel we'd just booked while we were eating at the burger place around the corner, and I asked the manager if we could store our bikes somewhere, she said sure, she'd upgrade us to a room that had our bikes in the garage underneath.  Cool, I thought.  Then she took us to the room and it was this INCREDIBLE 2 bedroom suite with a huge living area, kitchen, all original stone walls and floors with massive ceiling heights - we lived like kings!

And ate like kings!  This stuff from the bakery around the corner.  In the end, we were there so often they started giving us free stuff!  Woohoo!

Our final dinner before the cycling legend that is Cody left for Paris before heading back to Oz.  What a brilliant time we had.  LOVED IT.

Adaptation 4 - Off piste to the Mediterranean

So, we packed our bikes up again, and headed out of Nimes uncertain what the route to the coast would look like, only to discover it was an old rail trail most of the way with amazing scenery and perfect cycling conditions. This country just keeps amazing me. 

We stopped in a small super cute town near Montpellier. The hotel had a crazy Aussie feel with the entrance sign showing in French or Aussie, and after the previous town we'd stopped in for arvo tea had zero action, this one was full of people and restaurants - awesome!

Leaving Nîmes, we had to have one last shot at this amazing place on our way out.  It's just so cool.

And here is a quick video to see what it was like riding on the fantastic rail trail that Mike discovered.  The riding really was gorgeous - and it was a Sunday so the whole world was out riding, walking, roller blading...you name it, everyone was out!

And here is the town of Sommières where we stopped for lunch.  JUST GORGEOUS.

And here is the little town of Mauguio where we stopped overnight in a cute little hotel that had a strange affinity with Australia (see next pic)...

Back to the OG plan - the Via Rhona finale

The following day we did it!  We hit the Mediterranean.  At first to be honest it was a little underwhelming we were in a car park in the middle of a marina section. Fortunately we followed the Med for the rest of the day, and it was magical (including Flamingos). We made our way to Sete where we got an apartment in the centre of town (carrying our bikes up a spiral staircase - exciting!). This is the end of the Via Rhona, and the start of the "Canal des 2 mers" bike route which might take us to Bordeaux - we will see! 

The following day we followed the coast again to our destination of Beziers (yes the one Cody had foretold!), where a rest day awaited!

So happy, though very underwhelmed, to hit the Mediterranean

We needed eclairs to help with the underwhelment (I don't even think that's a word, but the eclairs made up for all that underwhelment)

Our first sighting of flamingoes - I couldn't believe it!  

The little bridge we stopped to have our picnic lunch - it was on a small little back road, but we couldn't believe the amount of people that walked and cycled past.

Great riding.

More flamingoes - Mike was getting a little frustrated i think with me pointing out every single flamingo I saw!  I only stopped a few times to take pics.

We needed a hard earned Black Doctor and Orange Doctor in a cute little town.

We made it to Sete and our apartment - we were tired but happy.

Having our brekkie the next morning at the spot where the Via Rhona actually starts/ends.  Sadly, the pain aux raisins was disappointing.  I ate it anyway.

On the road to Beziers.

Vines are everywhere in this country - from the north to south on our journey, we've seen vines the whole way.  I never get sick of it.  Just beautiful.

Stopping just out of Beziers to sort out some accommodation.  Such a cute spot by the side of the Canal du Midi.

Our awesome apartment in Beziers - the one with the pale green doors there at the end of the street.  We were two minutes walk from the Les Halles (food markets) and around the corner from the famous Cathedrale Saint-Naziare.

Les Halles.  We visited daily.

A 2000 year old olive tree around the corner from our apartment.

Cathedral de Saint-Nazaire

It was breathtaking inside...

The view from the front of the Cathedral - Mike looking pensive

Amazing city.  Just walked under this and looked up.  INSANE.

Mike is going a little crazy in downtown Beziers. 

But wait... there's more!

Beziers left no time for finishing the blog, so it's now 3 days later and we're on a rest day in Carcassonne.. and hopefully this time we really will finish this blog post!

Since Beziers we've had a couple of tough days on the bike - 50k each day on rough dirt tracks (later to be discovered marked as mountain bike only!) that has really stretched our energy reserves and timing each day. We had a quick overnighter in someone's granny flat en route to Carcassonne - we got there at 6pm and were gone by 10am and we just pretty much ate our 2 minute noodles and slept with exhaustion.  We are now happily relaxing in Carcassonne where we're rebuilding our strength, visiting old haunts, and planning the next few days, where we expect the rough track to continue.

Fortunately, as we close in on 4,000k's we're tough enough to handle it!

Beziers to Ventenac-en-Minervois

 

Breakfast at a cute little cafe the morning we leave Beziers.  YUM YUM.

Leaving Beziers behind over the Pont Vieux (Old Bridge)

Amazing view back as we wave goodbye to a great place.

The Canal du Midi - 9 Locks that we pass on our journey out of town

Stopping for a rest along the canal at a tourist info centre - you can see how dry and dusty it's becoming

We thought we were on a winner with this good path...and then things got really tough with often just a little rut to cycle through.  We abounded the cycleway halfway through and did the last 20km on roads to make our accommodation around 6pm that night.  It was a long long day with loads of dust and 2 minute noodles for dinner.

The view is great from our humble abode in Ventenac-en-Minervois. 

Ventenac-en-Minervois to Carcassonne

Ready to get moving to get to Carcassonne!  Woohoo!

Glorious views on the canal as we ride - we've decided to stick with the Canal du Midi to Carcassonne

Things are looking good.  But dusty.

Stopping for a coffee on the way.

Some of the path is original stones - and sometimes it got very slippery if we encountered water, so over we walk.

Incredible cycling.  But really tough on the hands and butt - all gravel path, all day.

Stopped for some tapas to give us nourishment and motivation for the last 20kms - we were beginning to doubt we'd make it, but of course we did!

Look how freaking happy we are.  Knackered but so happy to have made it.  AND SO MUCH DUST!!!  

You can see some of the dust here - when we got to our accommodation, a cute apartment at the foot of the castle, it took us 30 mins to wipe off all the dust from everything before we could unpack.

Carcassonne

Yesterday we took a bus 40 minutes out of Carcassonne to a place called Caunes-Minervois where Mike had spent some time visiting with his kids before my time.  His Mum and Dad had spent time there and he took the kids to visit.  It was a great adventure out and back on the bus, and the town itself was so cute, and just near truffle country!

Breakfast this morning in our cute little studio - LOVING ALL THE TILES here.

On our way to the castle this morning.

Up and up and up we went...

Just an incredible place - like a real fairytale, knights and princess castle

And of course the local specialty of Cassoulet for lunch - OMG - INCREDIBLE.  This one has confit of duck and pork sausage.  TO DIE FOR.

Overlooking where we're staying from the castle

Back down from the castle, Mike's trying to point out our apartment to give perspective.  It doesn't really work.

So, sportsfans, that's A LOT.  It's been a huge couple of weeks with ups and downs - goodbyes and reunion with Cody, crazy good cycling and really really tough cycling, more and more amazing things to see on the bike, great things to eat, and some average things. We've been pretty knackered, dusty, hungry, cranky, a bit stiff and sore (I had a 2am calf cramp that nearly killed me in Sete - was limping for a couple of days), and of course we've laughed, snuggled, danced in the street, marvelled at the marvels along the way, and wondered at how incredible the world is.  We're having a blast.